What’s News

01 Feb

January: In The Media

By: SVS Categories: Reviews and Awards, Wines

A month in the media – See what these journalists thought about our wines in December and January:

2021 Highgate Organic Shiraz South Australia

Double Gold – Gilbert & Gaillard International Challenge

2021 Highgate Organic Cabernet Sauvignon South Australia

Gold – Gilbert & Gaillard International Challenge

Winsor Dobbin (Winsor’s Choice): This might just be the best-value red wine import in Australia right now. It is a vibrant young and food-friendly blend of garnacha (grenache) and tempranillo from Spain that would work a treat as companion to just about any grilled red meat dishes, or perhaps some stuffed mushrooms. Made organically and bottled under screwcap, this is lip-smackingly good with a great balance between fruit and savoury characters. Unoaked, I suspect, and soft and juicy. A perfect choice for a holiday barbecue. Distributed by Single Vineyard Sellers and ridiculously undervalued with an RRP of $20.
90 pts – Andrew Graham (Oz Wine Review): Approachable Rioja is the vibe here with this import from the crew at Single Vineyard Sellers. Great colour – mulberry red. Good standard Crianza style Tempranillo this – that sweet and sour dusty sour cherry fruit with a little of the leather. Half modern young red, half classic crianza. There’s a dip of leathery, slightly furry tannins to finish but it’s more fruit wine than tannic and long. Not undistinguished, though. Solid drinking. Best drinking: over the next five years for a start.
93 pts – Kim Brebach (BWU20): No vintage given but the distributor has the 2021 in stock. The colour is impenetrable, the nose offers a riot of smells ranging from cherries and dark berries to leather and dried herbs. The palate continues the story and adds some vanillan oak, fresh acid and ripe tannins. It packs a lot of flavour into a medium-bodied package that really needs a couple more years in a dark place.
92 pts – Kim Brebach (BWU20): From the foothills of the Alps, this is as fresh as a mountain spring. Uncomplicated fun, perfect for hotsummers on the terrace.
Winsor Dobbin (Winsor’s Wine of the Week): Harewood Estate produces a range of several excellent rieslings from the Great Southern region of Western Australia. This is the entry level wine, but it is immediately accessible and great fun to drink. I’d pair this with some-fried flathead, but it would be a brilliant companion to most seafood and poultry dishes. It is delightfully aromatic with some classic lemon/lime citrus flavours allied to hints of pear and peach. There is still a terrific line of acidity, purity and focus with a cheeky crisp finish. One for enjoying now, preferably well chilled.

2018 Little Gem Shiraz

94 pts – Patrick Eckel (Wine Reviewer): Produced from the riverbank vineyard, the wine gives a nose of plum and blackberry with top notes of new leather fresh earth and brown spice. There is wonderful texture and drive to the wine with firm but fine tannins and vibrant acidity contrasted by concentrated plum and just ripe raspberry. The earthen impact to finish is countered by a veneer of spice and dark chocolate. Excellent length.

92 pts – Gabrielle Poy (The Real Review): Mulberries, fresh earth and spiced plums suggest the wine has a few years of age. The core is up-front and ripe, funnelled through the palate with supporting tannins. A lick of acidity on the finish ensures it ends with freshness. This is aging nicely and is quite demure in its delivery

90 pts – Stuart Knox (The Real Review): Medium ruby-red colour from core to rim. Crushed raspberries, dry earth and curry spices on the nose. The palate carries a full rich fruit with layers of sweet spices as well. Definitely full-bodied but has a hint of brightening acidity, tannins are fine and it rolls into a warm earthy finish.

92 pts – Kim Brebach (BWU20): I thought Pecorino was a cheese, but it turns out to be a long-lost variety that has found a new home in the Abruzzo region of Italy. Vinepair tells us that ‘Abruzzo has an almost mystical relationship to the grape, with its higher rocky slopes and lower coastal influence producing some of the most complimentary growing conditions for its “finicky” nature.’ It’s a pleasant white, not unlike a soft Pinot Gris – aromatic with notes of pears and ripe apples finished off with a generous squirt of Meyer lemon. There’s a decent line of acid to keep it neat and tidy. The only Aussie Pecorino I’ve encountered, and very pleasant drinking.

92 pts – Stuart Robinson (The Vinsomniac): Chalky citrus, saline whiff – like warm sun on sea kissed rocks. Citrus, pithy, minerally edge – with an orange twist coursing through the finish. A summery delight. Give it a crack with some oysters, or fried whitebait. 

91 pts – Kasia Sobiesiak (The Wine Front): Pear drop and banana skin to start. It blows off a bit and changes into lemon balm and waxy quality. Floral perfume. It has aromas of pears and peaches too. Beautiful texture, cushy, silky and salty, with gentle cinnamon spice and sour edge. Lemon verbena. Lingering. I like the texture of this wine more than its bouquet. But it doesn’t make it less tasty.

90 pts – Kim Brebach (BWU20): My daughter gave me a glass of white wine on the weekend, and I told her it tasted like a Sauvignon Blanc, but I didn’t think it was. It turned out to be a Vermentino. Madeline at the Wine folly says: If you love Sauvignon Blanc, then Vermentino is your friend. Most plantings of this variety are found in Sardinia, and I’m not sure the Hunter Valley is ideal for this variety. A short spell in French oak adds some interest, but the wine didn’t have enough crunchy acidity for my taste. It’s an easy-drinking wine, well-made wine though.

 

92 pts – Kim Brebach (BWU20): Sangiovese is the grape of Tuscany that is used to make Chianti Classico and the great Brunello di Montalchino. The fruit can be tart like sour cherries, with roast tomatoes and peppers in the background, but the dominant characters are savoury ones such as leather, tobacco, licorice, bay leaves and road dust. The serious reds made from Sangiovese tend to be high in both acid and tannin – these are food wines built for long lives. This edition from the Hunter is a soft affair, but show the savoury notes with the volume turned down. The acid and tannin profile is soft, and the wine is ripe and smooth and ready to drink. We had it with Italian meatballs, and it was a good match. Again I’m not convinced that the Hunter is the most suitable place for this variety, but the winemaking is pretty smart. Suzanne Little made the top wines for Rosemount before she and her husband Ian (also a winemaker, and a brewer) set up the LWC in 2000.

90 pts – Stuart Robinson (The Vinsomniac): Cracking Sangio from the Hunter here. It’s a fruity vibe with just enough of a savoury pitch for interest. Soft and supple on entry, a barely there throw of tannin gains a modest amount of presence to coat the mouth and leave a lasting presence.Lingering acidity for freshness and to clean up the palate and whatever you choose to pair with it. Cliched as it may seem, Pizzas worked well at Chateau Vinsomniac.

90 pts – Aaron Brasher (The Real Review): Fragrant aromas of blue fruits, anise, spice, cedar and eucalyptus. The palate has a lovely core of mulberry and dark cherry, teaming very nicely with firm, savoury tannins and lively acidity. Decent length, texture and mouth-feel
90 pts – Andrew Graham (Oz Wine Review): I criticised this wine’s older brother yesterday and side-by-side this was so much better. Pemberton Chardonnay in a brisk and light style but with golden nutty oak highlights on a crisp palate. Plenty of upfront flavour, and nice acid balance. Not profound, but great value. Best drinking: nowish.
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