All hail Riesling, the oft-forgotten champion of Australian white wines. Harewood’s array of great Western Australian Riesling releases are almost unwaveringly great examples too, just for a little evidence. The only question is, which release will be the best for this vintage? The Harewood Estate Denmark Riesling 2023 might well be it. What I like about the Denmark release is the little twists of herbs in among the array of ripe fruits. A little dill and cabbage nestled among melon and grapefruit. It’s a supercharged nose (and palate) too, a wine of grandiose citrusy power, and big fruit, yet also firm firm acidity. There’s a bit of a mojito vibe to the palate too (hold the sugar syrup), with ripe lime juice driving the length. Just an incredibly good, powerful and compelling white wine.
95 pts - Kim Brebach (BWU20)The Great Southern in WA had a dry summer preceded by a cool growing season. White grapes were picked nearly 3 weeks later than usual, and that slower ripening curve built richer aromas and flavours than usual in the 2023 Rieslings. It was almost a mirror of the 2022 vintage in Clare. Limes, lemons and stone fruits lead the charge across the palate, with rich aromatics and generous flavours tingling the senses. There’s none of the usual reticence we see in the white of this region.
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